Clean but not Squeaky

Never clean a chain on the bike, always remove and degrease then rinse thoroughly, dry and re-lube with chainsaw oil. Clean all other components. Re-assemble. 1 hour every 3-4 months if you ride EVERY day 35-40 miles each day.

New chains always seem to be overgreased and the grease they are packed in seems specifically designed to get truly filthy quite quickly. I've found chain cleans up much more easily on subsequent cleans once you've first removed packing grease.

Big mouth Lucozade bottle full of red diesel, odd socks for wiping down, and Fenwick's stealth. Silent Running.

Like others I was bemused as to who leaves the chain on the bike for a deep clean when it has a split link that lets you remove it.

Same goes for cassettes.

Erm is petrol not any good then!

I was a bit unsure as to how much difference a really clean chain would make vs one that just had a superficial wash over.
On one bike I tried meticulously cleaning the chain every couple of rides, using a similar method to the one in the story (minus the WD40) and on the other I just wiped the chain over with a bit of the general bike cleaner solution with a separate sponge when I was giving the bike a wash.
Both chains seemed to work fine and shift as well as each other the next time the bike was used, but the one that just got the simple wash over did seem to get a little bit less slick on about the 3rd or 4th ride between cleanings but it wasn't anything very noticeable.

Can't really comment about longevity of the chains, I change them once they've stretched a bit far, it usually seems to be quicker than any actual wear.

Might not be the most scientific method but from my experience I've stuck with giving it a simple wash in detergent when the bike gets cleaned, and a more thorough degreasing if the chain picks up a lot of dirt that won't wash off straight away.

I use ultrasonic bath with gunk for chain and cassette. Parts come out like new. I now have a large container of chain wax which I melt in the oven, once chain has submerged wipe down reassemble. Good for a few hundred miles if not more

I'm staggered no one has mentioned the superb qualities of diesel oil and the silky feel of the chain after cleaning with it.

As an elderly but still keen cyclist I am intrigued by the variety of chain cleaning ideas - I'm with JeffR's Dad. Back in the 50s it was chain off, into an old pan of paraffin, brought to the boil on a primus stove (outside), stirred thoroughly, hung up to dry, and then back on the bike.

Back in th 60's my Dad taught me the bike maintainance skills he used in the 1930's, long before modern tools, cleaning materials and lubricants.
As 3cyclinders suggests, every week, after a weekend club ride, off would come the split link, the chain would then be immersed in a tin of paraffin. The lid taped up it was then immersed in boiling water for several minutes.
With a pair of gloves or an old towel it would then be shaken till your arms screamed in pain. Drained and hung to drip dry, it was then placed in a pan, covered with light oil and carefully warmed on the gas hob. Left to drain and re-fitted. Never had a problem with a chain which always ran sweetly.
Today's chains are much cheaper to replace, and the wife won't let me in the kitchen!

I thought this was the only proper way to clean your chain?

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html

I used to use the chain cleaning tools you can buy. In the case of the Park Tools one I thought the magnet was a good idea. But each of the tools has broken in one way or another. The brush method was a revelation and actually quicker and cleaner.

GCN have a video which gives a great breakdown of the process.

I have always been curious as to the exact properties of wet, dry and ceramic lubes available. I use a 'wet ceramic' lube, but only understand that a 'wet' lube is for wet weather, not why it is better.

I also worry about whether I have too much or too little lube on the chain. As I understand it the chain should feel lubed/sticky to the touch, but otherwise appear 'dry'.

Folks, let's not be hating on what people find works (apart from mixing a degreaser with a lube - that's just daft )

Time spent (and I mean only a few minutes) up close & personal with your drivetrain every few weeks is essential to spot stuff starting to go wrong, that could go wrong with nasty consequences.

e.g. some people don't check their tyres after every ride. Takes 20 seconds for both, max - and could save you a flat, blowout or major crash.

It's a broad church.

Quote:

I follow a strict regime for cleaning my...oh give over...

You are a trainspotter and I claim my free GNWRS badge. You know how many kms before you degrease the chain and keep a record of the km lifespan of the chains. Weak lemon drinks all round!

I follow a strict regime for cleaning my drivetrain. During the winter when the road a mucky and thus the chain, I degrease the chain and drivetrain after every second outing or if its very foul weather each spin. In the summer it gets degreased every 150-200km.
Procedure is pretty simple but methodical:
1. Apply diesel (sparingly) to chain, cassette, derailleurs (front and rear) and chainrings. Use a small paint brush or like.
2. Leave for 5-10mins while filling bucket with hot water and your chosen bike wash/detergent.
3. Pre-Rinse bike. Wash/Soap complete bike and rinse. With remaining soapy water (or neat dish washing liquid if you like) wash chain, cassette, derailleurs (front and rear) and chainrings using an old dish washing brush. Rinse drivetrain thoroughly.
4. Back pedal cranks while gripping chain (beneath chainstay) with rag / garage strength paper towel to remove remaining dirt and old lube.
5. Dry chain with rag or air line (if available). Chain should look factory clean after this. Re-lube sparingly with chosen lube (my favourite is Rock Oil Motorcycle Chain Lube). Allow to dry and wipe off excess.

This method has resulted in chain lifespan of ~8000km for Campag chains and -6500km for Shimano/Sram. I tend to use Campag chains all the time even though I have shimano grouppo.

I have tried just about everything.

Then, a while back I read an interview with the Bissell team mechanic in the US, who recommended this routine... and it bloody well works.

Use Prolink Progold lube - it also acts as a degreaser. Used in a chain bath / chain cleaning device it gets your chain cleaner than you would believe.

So -

Step 1 - quick spray of Morgan Blue degreaser on derailleurs, cogs, chainset.

Step 2 - wash bike

Step 3 - clean chain in chain bath thingummy filled with Progold. Chain will gleam like precious thing. Wipe off excess then backpedal like billyo to get rid of the rest.

Step 4 - pour progold back into bottle, use to lube pivot points on bike.

Put bike in shed, leave to dry. The Progold then dries like a dry lube and is the best I have ever used at not picking up dust and crud, so chain stays clean and shiny for longer.

And because the chain is super clean, you don't have that thing where it looks clean but it actually makes your cassette and chainrings grimy as soon as you the bike again (which can happen when just using the brush method above).

Whole process prob takes less time that it took me to write this...

My pleasure.
It's just another bit of trainspotterish nonsense that cyclists indulge in rather than actually riding their bikes.

(...and embarrassingly enough I used to do it, and used to buy 6 chains, then change them after every 2 months riding, then spend time cleaning them in between. I was commuting and racing the same mountain bike.
Did it make a difference?
Only in a negative way, and only to my sex life...)

None of the above jiggery-pokery has ever been shown to do anything except allow you to spend time in your shed away from the wife.
Time spent fannying about with chain cleaning is like time spent fannying about cleaning the soles of your shoes.

I use dry lube, I wash the bike as little as possible, it works.

If degreasing is fine why do SRAM and KMC (who also make Shimano chains) tell you not to do it?
http://www.kmcchain.eu/maintenance

"Observe how much gunk comes out of the chain that appeared to be clean"

Plus the grease that you can't replace by slapping it on the outside.