Scott CR1 - does broken front mech mean replacing the whole frame?!

Further to previous comments, this also happened to my frame (a 2010 CR-1 Pro) and Scott decided that as it was corrosion, it wasn't covered by the warranty. 

The bottle cage mounts in the seat tube had also corroded through. 

I used rivnuts to mount the bottle cage onto and I simply glued and riveted the hanger back on with a hand riveter. (A clamp-on mech hanger didn't work because of the location of the bottle cage and mounting holes.) 

It has been perfectly fine and I've used the bike regularly for the last 36 months like this. 

Thanks to the ealier bloggers as I had a broken rivet on my Ribble Carbon R872 frame which is two years old. The blog gave me the confidence to make my own repair. I couldn't face the hassle of getting the repair done under guarantee, so ordered a pop rivet gun from toolstation which arrived in two days (including a bank holiday) and only cost £10. It came with several rivets including some 1/8" which fitted my frame. I wanted to use the bike before I could make a repair so made a tool which allowed made to fit an M3 screw into the hole with a nut on the inside. The tool consisted of a long aluminium tube with a hole to hole the nut. I even included a washer on the inside by glueing it to the nut. I could see the nut through the rivet hole and got the screw started OK. I then realised that it would be much more difficult to get the screw out and if the nut rotatated I would be really stuck -- so not so clever after all ! So I waited for the gun to arrive.
My son works in the aerospace industry and pointed out that electrolytic corrosion between carbon and aluminium is a big concern in aircraft. Hence there is always a thin glass layer and a waterproof layer between the carbon and the aluminium. I put some paint on the rivet to try and prevent the corrosion but I doubt whetehr this will last long: but now I know how to do the repair I can easily do it again.

A big reason is that modern carbon frames often have very non-standard profiles, especially around the BB, so a standard-shaped band-on would be no use. Nor can it be slid up and down the tube - to e.g. accommodate the fitting of a compact chainset - if the tube-profile changes signficantly over the sliding distance, as many would.

Mmmm ! Why do manufacturers use " braze ons " ? Surely band on mechs are simply less likely to cause problems and are cheaper to install and easier to adjust !

OP what area are you in? Sounds Luke the same thing that happened to me recently. Got fobbed off by LBS then another shop got it warrantied fairly quickly.....just wondered if the initial shop may be the same?

Well done Evans.

The original LBS stating it was caused by riding a bike, in the wet, is ludicrous. Removing the seatpost would not affect the rivet in any way.

Kudos to Evans, but this should have been done by LBS, it was their responsibility, shame on them. These will be the same guys pleading in future to support the local and not shop with the larger chains.

Glad you got it sorted.

Yep. Definitely exhaust all your other options first before you repair it yourself, as it really does look like a manufacturing defect.

Any repairs you attempt to make will surely void any warranty claim, so I'd leave that until you are 100% certain that Scott or your LBS isn't going to help out.

It p*sses me off when shops pull out an excuse for it not being their problem. Them not being Scott dealers anymore isn't your problem, but your problem is definitely theirs.

Take as many pictures as you can before you send it anywhere.

Scott have a 5 year frame warranty.
Get onto the shop you got it from, and tell them you want to pursue a warranty claim for it and see what Scott offer you.

So they are still riveting carbon frames? I thought that was a long since gone method.

I still wouldn't do a DIY job on it as first choice. I would see what Scott will do for you regards warranty replacements.

If that is a no go, then try the DIY or get someone to rivet it back on for you.

As above... or if all else fails, remove the rest of the hanger, buy a clamp on front mech and just clamp it around the frame.

So, in answer to your original question; no.

Your frame isn't 'done' mate. From the looks of your photo all you have is a broken rivet, so should be a simple repair. I've got a CR1 and the front mech mount is attached to the frame by four standard 'pop' rivets. Your photo looks to show that one of these has broken (maybe due to galvanic corrosion between the carbon and aluminum) with half the rivet still stuck in the frame and the other half in the front mech mount (under a layer of paint). To repair the damage you should just be able to push the half in the frame into the frame; remove the bottom bracket to get the half rivet out, otherwise it will rattle around in their and drive you nuts! Then remove the half in the front mech mount. You should then have a hole in the mech mount and a matching hole in the seat tube. Now you get yourself down to Screwfix and buy a hand riveter and some rivets (they sell a mixed rivet pack, so you should get the right size; you can compare the head size to select the correct one), this shouldn't cost you more than £30. Get back home, bend the front mech mount gently back into position, select your rivet (maybe spray it with some paint first to make it more resistant to galvanic corrosion), put it in the rivet gun, pop it through the matching holes, squeeze the rivet gun and Bob's your uncle! Good as new! Don't worry about the frame, this looks like a failure of the rivet and the frame should be fine. Carbon-fibre reinforced plastic isn't some mysterious, magical material, as some would have you believe; it's bloody strong stuff (not fantastic with impact loads, admittedly) so give it a go, or alternatively try and deal with Scott/LBS/Evans BS and end up shelling out for a new frame.
I've actually carried out this repair to two bikes including a CFRP framed TT bike that subsequently carried me through one Ironman and several half-ironman races plus loads of TT's and shorter tri's.
Bikes are simple! Hope this helps?

On a carbon frame, it almost certainly means the frame is done, because it is not a typical "braze on" where it was brazed to a metal frame.

Before brazing, they were riveted to the frame.

I think on carbon, they are moulded into the frame during manufacture, hence it cannot just be typically repaired.

If it can be taken off cleanly, you could get a carbon braze on adapter and be going again, but I don't know if that would weaken the structure of the tube or not. You really need to get in contact with Scott directly, I wouldn't be going through Evans as they had nothing to do with selling you the bike in the first place. They are just going to charge you to say it is or isn't broken.

I would be going back to the place you originally purchased it and demanding that they are responsible for your bike and any warranty issues, regards whether they deal in Scott or not.

The derailleur is intact, it is a 'Braze on' type.

What's bust is the mounting that's glued and riveted to the frame, the dealer is correct, it's a part of the frame and technically, yes the official manufacturer advice is a new frame.

However carbon fibre frame repair specialists will be able to repair it.

In the old days,these mounts were brazed to the steel frames.

I haven't had carbon repaired, so don't offer a recommendation for who to use, but there are a few out there.

This kinda thing

http://www.carbonframerepair.com/index.php/bh-g5/