- News
- Reviews
- Bikes
- Accessories
- Accessories - misc
- Computer mounts
- Bags
- Bar ends
- Bike bags & cases
- Bottle cages
- Bottles
- Cameras
- Car racks
- Child seats
- Computers
- Glasses
- GPS units
- Helmets
- Lights - front
- Lights - rear
- Lights - sets
- Locks
- Mirrors
- Mudguards
- Racks
- Pumps & CO2 inflators
- Puncture kits
- Reflectives
- Smart watches
- Stands and racks
- Trailers
- Clothing
- Components
- Bar tape & grips
- Bottom brackets
- Brake & gear cables
- Brake & STI levers
- Brake pads & spares
- Brakes
- Cassettes & freewheels
- Chains
- Chainsets & chainrings
- Derailleurs - front
- Derailleurs - rear
- Forks
- Gear levers & shifters
- Groupsets
- Handlebars & extensions
- Headsets
- Hubs
- Inner tubes
- Pedals
- Quick releases & skewers
- Saddles
- Seatposts
- Stems
- Wheels
- Tyres
- Health, fitness and nutrition
- Tools and workshop
- Miscellaneous
- Cross country mountain bikes
- Tubeless valves
- Buyers Guides
- Features
- Forum
- Recommends
- Podcast
Add new comment
49 comments
I have not made up my mind totally yet.
I have heard a lot of people explain that it is not worth upgrading this frame but no-one has explained why. I suppose what I really need is someone to explain to me why this 6061-T6 frame is not as good as the Triban 6061-T6 that has been suggested several times as the alternative.
Also I do intend to eventually upgrade the frame but that is going to be a big job involving getting a custom Ti frame as I understand the improvements of a Ti frame over 6061-T6.
"seat is already upgraded and perfect"
I haven't found "YAFEE YF Comfort Sports Saddle" online but such Yafee saddles as I can find seem to cost about US$10 and look very soft.
They look like the sort of thing that might be ok for 5-10 miles, but not much more than that. An area to look at?
Also, what about SPDs and a pair of shoes?
Can't help thinking that a properly fitting new bike from Decathlon may be the better option.
I agree with your point on the saddle but while it is a lot softer than mine it is a lot firmer than the gel beast she has on her vintage truimph. So I am trying to get her to a harder saddle by gradual steps and this is the first one.
I also thought about SPDs and shoes but she is very wary of them, might try with the shimano click'r pedals though as they sound like a great starter SPD pedal
I've just done a big upgrade project on my CX - new TRP Spyre brakes, new brake and gear cables and housings, new BB, Tiagra cranks, new chain, new bar tape. Cost about £220ish. That's worthwhile on a bike that was £900 new (though I paid a lot less due to discounts). Spending £400 on a £300 bike is lunacy.
I know not everyone is made of money but please look at the Decathlon range. Either the Ultra 700AF at £750 or the Triban 540 at £650 are much better value in the long run. http://www.decathlon.co.uk/triban-540-road-bike-105-id_8350480.html
I was under the impression that sub £1k bikes all have pretty much the same quality of frame? Of course in this assumption I am comparing apples with apples (6061-T6 with 6061-T6) and ignoring the geometry differences as it isn't wrong currently.
Also all these upgrades should be transferable when I upgrade to a Ti frame further down the line as planned?
I've done a side by side with the bike you suggested and I do not seem to be getting more bang for my buck. I have included an image of my workings out so I can be corrected if I am going wrong (which I probably am and need guidance)
CarreraVsTriban540.jpg
Also thank you for all your responses so far, they have been very useful. I will definately use the weekend "fix your own" service at my LBS as the evening one only runs 4 hours and looks like I may struggle with that
This will be the spec sheet of it when it is completed
CarreraUpgraded.jpg
Let me clarify a few things.
£730 is not the total cost to me it is the total retail cost to me. I already have some of the items so they could be considered a zero cost and other items I can get on the Cycle to Work scheme so save 42% on them. The cost breaks down as per attached image
I considered upgrading my bike and passing down the 105 groupset but I can't justify the move to Ultegra as the jump does not seem that great and Dura Ace is out of my price range. I am spending a fair chunk of the £1k Cycle to Work scheme money on new wheels and cassette for my bike, I'm only spending £390 of it upgrading the carrera.
I will eventually be upgrading the frames on both bikes to a custom titanium but I can't afford that right now so it is a couple of years down the line.
UpgradeCarrera.jpg
if she's only 1.5 cm shorter than you, buy yourself a new bike and give her your old one
Btw, you mention that it's a good fit?
I'm willing to bet that it'll turn out to be too big, and this a pointless exercise.
If you're serious about her getting the miles in, you'll also need to change the bars. Probably shorten the stem. Then the steering will be shit. So you put the seat forward too, which depowers her pedalling...
Why do you assume this? She is all of 1.5cm shorter than I am and with a swimmers back so only the same difference in width of shoulders. The slight difference in leg length can be compensated slightly through crank length I think. Or am I completely misunderstanding something?
But if you still want to bet I will take your money
This is an utterly pointless exercise. I loves me a cheap bike but there is ZERO point in throwing that kind of upgrade cash at a Carrera TdF.
Find a ready made bike with 105 in the same colours.
Why don't you buy her a new bike? Everyone loves riding a shiny new bike!
Problem solved
I wouldn't bother, sell it and start gain, it's the frame that makes the bike and you will be stuck with that. You could definitely get a much better bike for the money.
You can put the tyres on the wheels at home, so they're ready to go.
Don't forget to buy new cables too.
Stripping the groupset off takes no time EXCEPT for the BB. Don't forget to mark where the old shifters are (trying to get new shifters level can be a nightmare). Making a note of where the front mech is and how straight it is may be worth doing too.
I'd give yourself four hours or more, if you've never done this before. It could easily take all day if you have hiccups. It always takes longer than you think.
IMO, I think you could get something better with that money though. I've built two bikes for that amount.
Good plan, is it also worth trying to put on the cassette at home?
I had not factored this in so thanks for the heads up. Having had a look at cables it seems to be a bit of a minefield! Any advice on the cables I should go for and if inline adjusters are something I need? All very confusing
Good tip with the shifters, makes me glad that after measuring her shoulders the current bars are the right size and I don't have to start with a naked set.
This is really useful advice as I have the option of a Wednesday evening session or an all day Saturday session. I will of course be chosing to do the all day Saturday session after this insight.
Any help on how I could get more for my money would be gratefully recieved.
If you don't know what you're doing you'll be there all day swapping components... I feel sorry for the guys in the shop...;-)
No upgrades make a "massive difference" but what matters are tyre setup, contact points (brake levers, saddle, bars, tape) and fit.
Personally I wouldn't put anything better than Claris or Sora on her frame.
Tyres to 25mm or 28mm. If frame will take that big. Upgrade groupset to 11 speed 11-32 cass and 50/34 crankset. Bar tape will make it look new once all works are finished and setup. Tyres and gearing by will make the bike more enjoyable if she struggles with hills. You've done the saddle so just mechanics. Take a leisurely day to strip, clean and fit all new parts
You could just buy one of these..... http://www.btwin.com/en/road-bikes/sport-road-bikes/19531-triban-540-c2-...
but...if you want to embark on this.... a skilled mechanic will have it torn down in around 15 - 20 mins.... then a thorough clean up before reassembly.....
Reassembly is down to you where to start.... but yer bar tape will obvs be the finishing touch.... Change the tyres first.....then..
Start at the Bottom Bracket & crank on... then the front mech..... rear mech.... then go for the cables...only route them for now.....
Cassette on and offer up the wheels ....on the rear, set up the mech limits and then sort the cable out....... chain on and sort the rear indexing ..then the Front mech cable and set up..... once happy.... lube the chain as per your liking and do the finishing touches..... Good Luck...
If you haven't done this kind of thing before...allow 4 hrs +
Pages