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Best camera for a lazy and tight-fisted IT numpty

I know there will be other threads but I figure the tech keeps moving so I would put a new one. Kick me if this is rude.

After being on the receiving end of more needless shitty driving this morning, I think I'm asking Santa for a camera this Xmas. It needs to be easy to use and reasonably priced.

If I do send to the police it will usually be Thames Valley though I am tempted to go and find the bell-ends and give them the chance to respond to the footage first (the worst behaviour is almost certainly from people close to home). Therefore I need to catch ghe plate and preferably the face of the driver.

If you're new please join in and if you have questions pop them below and the forum regulars will answer as best we can.

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34 comments

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wtjs | 2 years ago
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And this is night plate capture, accomplished with Aldi front light on constant setting 2 out of 4, angled right. You don't get them all! (no fault committed by this driver)

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wtjs | 2 years ago
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Problem with GoPro is the PC software which is really unpredictable and you can't get it to load until another day- this is because it hasn't been supported for years. The phone app is no substitute. None but the Hero7 Black have GPS, which is essential for me, but nobody seems to be mentioning this feature. My guess is that none of these other common cameras have GPS. This is white Seat Ibiza PK15 PCY performing really close passing and illegal crossing of double white lines at the same time

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wtjs replied to wtjs | 2 years ago
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And this is the driver at Sainsbury's cash machine, showing a common feature of combining GoPro and the ubiquitous white car beloved of offenders. However, you generally can get a frame or two with legible plate straight out of the camera, and it's easy to correct any individual image in Windows anyway. Mostly, all plates are detected even on the other side of the road

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Awavey replied to wtjs | 2 years ago
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you can pull Strava data into the Cycliq app for putting gps into videos ,but Ive never bothered so dont know how useful it looks in the edit.

the Gopro software or lack of it, always put me off, plus my gopro hero was no good on battery and wasnt reliable enough, plus a pita to take off/reattach to the bike all the time.

Cycliqs seem good on battery, but is flawed with its lens being way too easy to scratch, and the earlier models were prone to water ingress, that theyve since produced accessories to solve both is sort of admission of that.

theres a new version of the 12CE out Im surprised there havent been more reviews of it yet online.

Ive also tried the kind of cheaper end and theyre adequate but you do lose out on usability and image quality compared to the more expensive ones imo

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wtjs replied to Awavey | 2 years ago
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you can pull Strava data into the Cycliq app for putting gps into videos

Waste of time and won't be believed- phone linking doubts etc. Has to be native in the camera. It works really well on the Hero7 Black- speedo readings very similar to non-GPS cycle computer

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Oldfatgit | 2 years ago
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Cycliq Fly 12 and Fly 6 ... every time.

I've had both of mine for around 3 and a half years and not had any issues.
I've a Fly 12CE ... Great camera. Good battery life in camera mode (not bothered about running light + camera); fantastic image stabilisation in all modes except for HDR (and who needs that anyway), and easy to use.
May struggle in low light and complete darkness, but then you're up against camera physics.
It will continue recording upto 30 mins after it detects an incident (and incident detection is thankfully less sensitive than Garmin...)
Fly 6 gen 2 on the back; only grumbles I have is that it records in .avi format, and the charging / card port has a little rubber cover that eventually detaches. It took best part of 3 years for mine to come off though, and it doesn't affect the operation of the camera at all.
Computer software provided is one step away from being pants... and not in a good direction either. I don't think I've ever been able to get the Strava data tie-in to work.
If you want to put telemetry data on your video, get hold of something like Dashware.

I like them so much that I've just ordered the new 12 and 6, and am waiting for delivery.

If you want to be bored out your head ... but so swe how the Fly12 CE behaves on road and gravel, you can find plenty of examples on my channel... https://youtube.com/channel/UCsfBOmOh2FrA5Jm7__8yAxA

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NOtotheEU | 2 years ago
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They aren't cheap and friends more expensive GoPro's give much better video/sound quality but I run two Drift Ghost XLs on my bikes (great QR brackets makes swapping easy) and I've just bought a Techalogic DC-1 Dual Lens Camera for my helmet.

The XLs probably aren't suited for a lazy and tight-fisted IT numpty. They give 9 hours battery life, link by wifi so you only touch the front one to control both and don't look like GoPros. Sadly the sound quality is terrible, the menu screen is tiny and you'll pay twice as much for the stabalized 4K version with half the battery life.

The DC-1 might be better suited. It lasts 2.5 hours, is light, records front and back and is one touch to turn on/start recording with strong vibration to let you know its on. Again the sound is terrible unless you like wind noise however you could charge it, mount it, press on and you'll be recording right away with no setup. You'll still want to adjust it to get the right shot and maybe mess with the settings but that's easy with the mobile app.

 

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Hirsute replied to NOtotheEU | 2 years ago
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On the drift ghost, I just take the card out and plug it into the pc. Most sd cards you buy come with a card holder to plug into usb, so I rarely use wifi.

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IanMSpencer replied to Hirsute | 2 years ago
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WiFi does not seem to be reliable enough to transfer a video without failing on these internal wifi transmitter server type devices. Never worked on whatever Fly12 used, and never has worked on the Ghost XL. Sneakernet* works every time.

 

*Back in the early days of local area networks, sane people wrote things to a floppy disk and walked across the room rather than waiting a couple of weeks for the network to transfer a file over 50KB.

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NOtotheEU replied to Hirsute | 2 years ago
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I do the same. I only use the wifi to run two cams in master/slave mode so the front cam controls both and settings are duplicated.

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OnYerBike | 2 years ago
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I currently have a GoPro - bought second hand so not outrageously expensive. Image quality is great; drawbacks are price (even 2nd hand) and battery length (depending on model ~90 mins). 

I previously had a Cycliq Fly6. While it lasted it was good - reasonably clear video (not as good as the GoPro but good enough), long battery life and a light to boot. But it randomly stopped working within three months. Cycliq replaced it under warranty (with a bit of persuasion...) bit then the replacement also stopped working, in less than one month. That time I opted for a refund rather than replacement. (Interestingly, as soon as I said it had stopped working Cycliq blamed user error resulting in water ingress without a shred of evidence). Other online reviews report similar issues. So I can't recommend Cycliq.

In terms of other options that I haven't used:

I am intrigued by the TOOO Cycling light/camera combo. Whoever runs the @PassPixi twitter account appears to have one and it seems good.

Various Drift Ghost cameras seem like viable options - good battery life and some have optical image stabilisation. But bulky, mounting may be an issue, and some users report reliability issues.

If you run a head unit, the Garmin RCT715 could also be an option. The camera seems mediocre, but a lot of people seem to love Varia Radar in its various forms, so if you're in the market for a camera could be worth killing three birds with one stone (also includes light). Not cheap though... (although Garmin devices often heavily discounted around Black Friday etc.) 

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HoarseMann replied to OnYerBike | 2 years ago
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Good overview.

I would go for a Garmin RCT715. It's 3-in-1, so just a single unit to fix to the seat post and will turn on/off with your head unit. No need to fiddle with any buttons on it. It's pricey at £350, but you could argue good value if you were to buy a radar, camera and light separately.

Second choice would be a Fly 6. I note there is a Version 3 about to be released. They've reverted to the charge port on the side, rather than the top as on the CE. So hopefully those water ingress failures are a thing of the past.

I bought 2 cheap (<£50) action cameras and tried to bodge them to work on the bike before giving in and shelling out for a cycliq (fly 6 non-CE).

One of my cheap cameras was actually excellent value, it was a Shimano CM-2000, a £300 action camera I got discounted for £50. Whilst it's got great mounting options, is really light and waterproof with super image quality (as good as a GoPro), including image stabilisation. The battery lasted 2hrs tops and though replaceable, you couldn't actually buy a replacement! The buttons were also incredibly fiddly and the app a bit pants. All in all, it did the job, but was such a frustrating experience to use I gave up on it.

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mark1a replied to HoarseMann | 2 years ago
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Agree ref RCT715. Pricey but cheaper & smaller than separate light/camera/radar. Hardware is good, battery life is good, quality is good, companion app less so - but software can be fixed. Works well with Garmin Edge of course (swipe down, press "save clip") and I've made several subs so far to local op snap. 

This is a screen grab of a clip, punishment pass for having the temerity to filter past at a traffic light, hopefully the police have actioned just for overtaking on crossing zigzags if not for the extreme acceleration close pass of me. 
 

Edit - I don't have a red tyre, it's the light!

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Hirsute replied to mark1a | 2 years ago
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No offence for the zig zags (assuming you were moving).

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mark1a replied to Hirsute | 2 years ago
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You maybe right, I'll defer to your knowledge/interpretation, it's just that I always thought that one should never overtake moving traffic on a crossing. 

HC191

191
You MUST NOT park on a crossing or in the area covered by the zig-zag lines. You MUST NOT overtake the moving vehicle nearest the crossing or the vehicle nearest the crossing which has stopped to give way to pedestrians.
Laws ZPPPCRGD regs 18, 20 & 24, RTRA sect 25(5) & TSRGD regs 10, 27 & 2

I've shown the Google Streetview here, it's no place to overtake at full throttle in an electric car with insane 0-30 acceleration 0.5m from a cyclist. 
 

 

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Hirsute replied to mark1a | 2 years ago
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If you dig into one of the regs listed, it actually refers to motor vehicles where moving but any vehicle if stopped.

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mark1a replied to Hirsute | 2 years ago
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OK, understood, but they were driving like a c*** and when you feel the whoosh of the wing/door mirror on your elbow, you want the t*** to at least get a letter off the police with some advice about passing other road users in a safe and considerate manner. I'm not posting the video as I don't have/want a YouTube account and it's still with Dorset Police Op Snap, but trust me, it wasn't "sorry mate I didn't see you" it was "have some of that you biking ****"

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Hirsute replied to mark1a | 2 years ago
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It's ok, you don't have to convince me that you were subject of really poor driving !!

I found the reg

https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1997/2400/regulation/24/made

 

 

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mark1a replied to Hirsute | 2 years ago
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30km/h on the screen grab, and they went past like a scalded cat in an EV. 

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HoarseMann replied to mark1a | 2 years ago
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Image quality on the Garmin looks good, but I really like the time/location/speed overlay on the video. Have you added that in post or does the 715 get all that data streamed live from the head unit?

If so, that's another big advantage. Just having accurate time is a big plus, as the clock drift on the Cycliqs can be quite noticeable.

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mark1a replied to HoarseMann | 2 years ago
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Nothing edited in post on that, straight out of the unit. The overlay can be configured to use time/date, GPS position, speed. All set by the head unit, so it's switch on and go. 

Ref quality, the previous grab didn't show the vehicle plate for obvious reasons, here's another grab showing the clarity of number plates. I saved this clip while pulling out of a segregated bike lane to go around a parked car.

 

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Velo-drone replied to OnYerBike | 2 years ago
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V similar experience with Cycliqs - won't touch them again.

IMHO anything that relies on a rubber port cover for an outdoor device and then attempts to blame water ingress on 'user error' is a straight out scam. 

Ghost XL battery is great - but image quality is so-so.  Sometimes struggles with numberplates, you'd be lucky to get a good view of a driver face with it.

Basically a 2nd hand GoPro is the best bet.  With image stabilisation, even their HD versions are pretty good.   

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Daveyraveygravey | 2 years ago
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I ran a cheap one for a while, think it cost around 40 quid.  For me, it wasn't worth the effort.  The battery life was around an hour, and some of my commutes are longer than that, so which part do you record?  The video was shaky, number plates unreadble, and I had to clear the memory card every few hours, so all in all there was no return on quite a bit of effort.

I also found it took away some of the joy of cycling for me.  I wasn't going out to catch people, but the extra hassle of another piece of high tech kit to worry about if it was working, if it would run out of charge, yadda yadda yadda...I just want to ride.  Admittedly without being scared shitless every 5 minutes, but I've lived with poor driving for over 40 years.

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hawkinspeter replied to Daveyraveygravey | 2 years ago
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That's why the cycliq make the best cameras for cyclists. Battery life is good, the video is very clear (except in low light conditions) and the SD card storage is self-managing with it over-writing older videos. You can also mark a video to not be auto-overwritten, but I can never remember what button that is.

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JustTryingToGet... replied to Daveyraveygravey | 2 years ago
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This is useful, I do think I may be too lazy to deal with the admin after

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IanMSpencer | 2 years ago
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Drift Ghost XL is adequate at around £150. Seems to be more targetted at motorcyclists but works fine on a bike. Battery lasts lots of hours, more than my 80 mile rides need. Quality ok, below is an example of what it produced on a badly lit incident, me coming from shadow into bright light shining into camera. It was still usable enough to submit and I got number plate with no trouble. Normally it looks very good.

 

Rear I am using a Fly6 which I think is original or second generation (not a CE). Apart from producing AVI, again, long battery life and adequate quality without any clever stabilisation. 

Front and rear don't seem to have any issues with lens damage, I just wipe mud off the rear camera with my gloves if it has got messed up.

 

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JustTryingToGet... replied to IanMSpencer | 2 years ago
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Thank you, really helpful

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hawkinspeter | 2 years ago
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I don't think trying to confront drivers with their dangerous driving is going to achieve anything as they'll either get very defensive or very aggressive (maybe both). Just go with sending it to the police.

There's a bunch of cheaper Cycliq imitations around, but I don't know how they compare. From what I can gather, there's still no decent competitor to Cycliq which is a shame as they're expensive and have their own quirks (why can't I keep my front and back cameras showing the same time?).

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JustTryingToGet... replied to hawkinspeter | 2 years ago
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hawkinspeter wrote:

I don't think trying to confront drivers with their dangerous driving is going to achieve anything as they'll either get very defensive or very aggressive (maybe both). Just go with sending it to the police.

There's a bunch of cheaper Cycliq imitations around, but I don't know how they compare. From what I can gather, there's still no decent competitor to Cycliq which is a shame as they're expensive and have their own quirks (why can't I keep my front and back cameras showing the same time?).

I do agree, and I'm not planning to go after people whilst raging. However, for a certain type of shitty driving, I'm optimistic enough that I think calmly asking someone to review the footage and see what it felt like to be on the receiving end of it could be educational and improve driving. I genuinely think a majority of shitty driving incidents are by people who are unaware how terrible their driving is.

I'm not going to go anywhere near the actual nutters. I could be completely wrong that they are notlocal and wouldn't be able to find them anyway.

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jaysa replied to hawkinspeter | 2 years ago
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hawkinspeter wrote:

I don't think trying to confront drivers with their dangerous driving is going to achieve anything as they'll either get very defensive or very aggressive (maybe both). Just go with sending it to the police.

I've at least been listened to if I calmly state the problem or infraction, explain that it tends to kill people, ask them if they could avoid it in future and thank them.
No-nos are shouting, swearing and banging or otherwise touching their precious tin box.
And for sure send to the police - each submission takes 45 mins now.
Might help that I'm a girl ...

Friday it was a 15cm close pass at 30mph in a 20mph by driver breathing laughing gas from a balloon - driver was so laid back he had trouble forming coherent words at the next lights ...

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