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22 comments
Uberbike bottom brackets on all my bikes. They are easy to maintain. I pop off the spacer and use a pick to remove the bearing seal once a year which has increased the life. Bearings are super easy to change (6805). Don't bother with ceramic versions, not worth the money IMO.
Tools to change the bearings are easily sourced online. Saying all this I used to annually pop the deals of Sram GXP bottom brackets and I got more than 4 years out of the two that I owned.
yeah Ive done this on shimano ones as well, you just have to be more careful removing the plastic covers.
The new Uberbike ones have got uprated SKF bearings so hopefully will last a long while
I've not had to replace an ultra torque bearing in about 10 years of using the standard
Nor I. My commuter has clocked up 20,000 miles on a Veloce UT chainset and is still on the original bearings. I haven't even had the cranks off to grease them. No creaks, no grinding, still spinning freely whenever the chain is off.
thats mightily impressive! Ive never used any Campag stuff
I stand corrected this time it was the drive side pedal clicking, so will service.
Still good to know that the Uberbike BB is running nicely after about 1000mi, I wont be using shimano ones again
Nice, always good to find the source of the click.
This is quite unusual. Don't take this the wrong way, but there is a common element here - you. How do you wash your bikes?
Infrequently (I dry brush usually) and then when I do it's with warm water and a sponge on most of the frame and components, and if needed GT85 on a cloth to wipe drivetrain, low pressure hose to rinse and not directly in to bearings
I've had no luck at all with SRAM GXP bottom brackets. The drive side seizes up at the mere mention of water and road grime. I've now moved to Praxis and hope they are better. At least the bearings are replaceable which will cut down the cost. I have had a Hope Shimano Hollow Tech II on the MTB and it was ok but the drive side bearings seized up and were completely rusty despite being stainless steel. Their replacement bearings are ridiculously overpriced. I purchased 4 Shimano XT BBs for the price of two Hope bearings - the first of which is still going strong three years later.
Hope, Hope then Hope again!
find Hambini on yoptube the undoubted real expert on BBs always good advice
Or indeed anything bearing related, been on his page many a time
That said I'm not convinced it's not the drive side pedal (I'll have to borrow a spare to confirm) even though it's only done about 2500mi and they're good pedals too (shimano M540)
Ah joys
I've got the WheelsMFG pressfit to external 24 bottom brackets on all of my bikes to avoid pressfit. The mileage I get from the bearings depends on the conditions.
Summer bike is every other year (ish) at around 10,000 miles per year. Winter bike does around a year (it doubles as my commuter. My CX bike, meanwhile. That needed flusing with WD40, drying and regreasing four times this season. Though it was a very muddy winter.
When I get a click, my approach is to throw grease/fibre grip at every potential problem area and re-torque. I could do things one-by-one to see what's the issue, but I see a full strip as a good safety check and a great self-isolation job.
I'm going to try and not insult Bechdan's knowledge and experience, but whenever I have had a botttom bracket go, it REALLY sounds as it has GONE. Grindy, awful noises, really nasty, and as I remember very little warning, silent one day then bam, graunchy, a click could be anything on the bike, everything wrong with my bike sounds like it's coming from the bottom bracket area. First thing I do is re-grease my seatpost. Then slowly start pulling bits apart, cleaning and greasing as I go, starting with the cranks, pedals, maybe bb threads.
The last click that developed went away by itself, yea...
Kind of good as I was still waiting to buy the new bb adaptor thing I discovered I needed.
Ah, are we talking "crunch crunch", not "click click"?
When, eight years ago, I had the Tiagra crankset on my Kona Jake changed for Deore, the mechanic fitted a SM-BB51 (HollowTech ext). Recently, the LBS advised me that my chain rings are worn and should be replaced when the current chain has had it.
That sent me to Strava to see how far the rings have lasted:
13,500 km.
As far as I can tell, the BB is still working as well as it did at the start of that 13,500 km.
The Kona Jake has become my shopping trolley and overnight-trip bike when I stay at the in-laws' (at least 50 km away). I mainly ride on pavement, but do quite a bit of riverside riding along loose gritty surfaces and gravelled trails. I avoid riding in the rain, but sometimes get caught in it. Riding after rain, when the front wheel more actively flings abrasives at the drivetrain, is unavoidable.
A few years ago, I my N+1 was a lighter bike with BB30a (pressfit).
After a couple of years of unfixable creaking, a mechanic spent three hours diagnosing the creak and found that the hole for the BB sleeve was not perfectly circular on the left.
The problem wasn't the BB, it was the frame.
The manufacturer replaced the frame.
In an early YouTube video, before he got all sweary, Hambini said, while pressfit technology had theoretical merits, imperfect L-R hole alignment and mechanical distortion during and after working on carbon fibre were practical drawbacks. BB30 is not suited to rush production for the consumer market.
A recent Cycling Tips nerd alert podcast shone some light on this. Some manufacturers skip or skimp on finishing steps to save a few dollars and IIRC this tends to be the main issue with frames that have pressfit BBs.
I was getting through 2 or 3 bottom brackets a year (SRAM and Shimano, no real difference between them) so I bit the bullet and bought a Hope unit about 3 years ago. Worth every penny, still running the original bearings so I recon it has paid for itself about 3 times over. I was so impressed that I bought a second hand one for one of my other bikes, 2 years later and that one is still like new too.
I've not had one wear out but I was in the habit of replacing them every spring - so probably about 4,000kms including winter commuting. I too have moved to using Uberbike ones and I didn't bother replacing them last spring so the current ones have about 8,000kms on them and they are still nice and smooth.
I have heard that introducing excessive sideloads on the bearings with the plastic screw in tensioner on the left hand crank can cause premature wear. I do them up quite tight with my fingers and then back them off ever so slightly before tightening up the left hand crank arm.
I have never had a problem with my XTR ones, the last on was only £30, so not particularly pricey. Seems to be about £40 now. Was just on the good bike (Ti MTB) so not huge mileage, but hard. Now on the new Ultimate Commuter, almost a year old, no commute yet, but ridden every day, mostly off road through in some awful conditions since late August/September.
My shimano square tapers all lasted soo very long, many, many years. And when they died you knew it, horrible noises, but it was so awful that I never got to seizing up.