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forum
Stem/steerer clamp bolts
Fitting a Ritchey 4-Axis adjustable stem, bought from SJS Cycles so it should be genuine. When I come to torquing up the bolts which clamp stem to the steerer, I find that the gap closes completely at about the minimum torque (5Nm). I can't slip a cigarette paper in there. This strikes me as wrong.
I've rechecked the packaging, definitely it's for a 1 1/8 inch stem, and the stem measures up at the same.
I've also checked that the bolts for the stem angle adjustment are correctly tightened to the specified 10Nm.
Any ideas? The stem seems tight enough, I can't twist the steering with the wheel between my legs, etc.
If you're new please join in and if you have questions pop them below and the forum regulars will answer as best we can.
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14 comments
Having a look at the drawings for this stem, it looks like it is split at the front as well as the rear. So with that in mind, perhaps the order with which the front and rear bolts are tightened matters?
I'd try slackening off the clamp bolts, then torque the raise adjustment bolt first followed by the clamp bolts.
Thanks for digging up the drawing.
Yes, I had the same thought myself. So I adjusted the stem angle first (before fitting the stem) and torqued the bolts to the specified 10Nm. Obviously the mating surfaces of the hinge are supposed to be fully clamped shut, so whatever gap remains on that side of the circumference is not adjustable. Could be that the "tenon" part of the stem is too fat?
Have to say, I'm at a loss. SJS seem to be saying "whatever, it's probably OK". I'll see what the manufacturer themselves say. But to my mind the part is out of tolerance. It's a round hole that takes a round peg, and the two have to fit. I mean, I know, it's only the steering!
yep, it's possible the 'tenon' bit is too fat. Are the surfaces of the toothed adjustment ring painted? A bit too much paint there would account for the tolerance issue. It's also worth having a look at those mating surfaces for any debris that could be trapped in there. I'd also try adjusting the stem to a different angle, to change those mating surfaces a bit and see if that has any effect on the clamp bolt gap.
I've had the same problem with a Ritchey stem before - can't remember the model or where I bought it from but it was somewhere reputable enough for me to believe it was genuine. Eventually found a plastic insert in the packaging to shim to fit 1 1/8 (wouldn't clamp properly without it and still wasn't great with it) was cheap enough for me to throw it in the spares box and forget about it. I should say that I've also had other newer and more expensive stems from Ritchey that didn't have this problem.
Thanks. However in my case no such shim, just a piece of paper with a QR code for the instructions. Not sure I'd be too happy needing to use a shim to make it fit!
It is difficult to see as the picture is focussed on the top bolt but the bottom bolt appears to have a slight gap, I would remove the stem and check that the steerer has not been damaged at the top clamp position.
Thanks for the suggestion, however the bottom is the same. Obviously I did torque them up by stages in turn. And no damage to the steerer. I like to have a 5mm spacer at the top to avoid having the stem clamping the open end of the steerer, hopefully to avoid such damage.
I also have a Ritchey 4-Axis stem but mine shows plenty of space left when clamped up.
Why not ask SJS? I sent them a question on a far cheaper part and they were very helpful.
I've emailed them today, will see what they say.
Edit - well full marks to SJS for a quick reply.
However it leaves me somewhat nonplussed. The writer tells me that having fitted lots of other stems and checking his own and a colleagues, he can't see an issue ... with mine. He goes on to say that in his own case the gap is "also" nearly closed up.
Thing is, there's no "also" about it, since there is all the difference in the world between closed up, and nearly (i.e. not) closed up.
I'll see what Ritchey themselves say. If there is any imperative behind the minimum torque setting, then it has to be achieved before the two ends butt together.
If it can be tightened enough so that the wheel won't move, then it should be fine for use. I'd agree that no gap does seem a bit odd, though.
It'd be interesting to see if anyone else has that stem and whether they have a gap or not.
Picture to show what I'm on about.
Just checked mine and my old 1" stem has zero gap like yours and it's been no problem even after a low speed fall. My two 1 1/8" stems are the same make and model (as each other, not yours) and one has a fag paper gap but I can get my nail in between the other.
If you loosen the bolts and tighten them up by hand rather than rely on the torque wrench you might get a better idea of whether you think they are tight enough to be safe.
Also you could always sand off the finish where they touch to give yourself a miniscule extra bit of clamping.
While the tip may be touching, the inner part is not so additional torque should still be acting on the stem.
Not ideal, but as suggested, check with SJS. As long as it is not overtightened - these in theory are supposed to move under impact of an accident - I wouldn't fret too much.