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forum
Building a super bike
Hi and merry Xmas to everyone. I’ve decided to take my cycling more seriously after a few months on a relative’s bike. I’ve also got some money to spend so I would like a really nice bike even though I’m not a pro. In particular, I’m liking the Pinarello Dogma F10 X-Light but as a noob I virtually have no idea where to begin selecting some components.
I know I want a Dura Ace groupset though I’m not sure which one. Dura Ace wheels, probably tubular, but again not sure whether to go for C40/60. I’m leaning towards C60. Pros/cons?
I also need to pick other components but don’t know what to get. Could someone identify for me the components used on the X-Light on the Pinarello website and also on Chris Froome’s bike if there is a difference.
If you're new please join in and if you have questions pop them below and the forum regulars will answer as best we can.
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79 comments
I saw a really fat bloke riding a Dogma when I did the Wiggle French Revolution in 2016. I say riding, he was pushing it up a hill.
If you are going to buy a Dogma, you better have the legs for it otherwise you'll get mocked mercilessly by other riders who pass you, and everyone will want to pass you.
If you want a 'pro' experience then try a Cannondale Supersix Evo (or even a CAAD12), Spesh Tarmac or something like a Giant TCR Advanced Pro. These are tour quality race bikes that will get you a knowing nod at the cafe without every Cavendish wannabe wanting to crush you on the hills for the bragging rights. Plus, you can walk into most bike shops and try one off the shelf.
Go for Ultegra. I love Campagnolo but it's a money pit.
Throw away the wheels (unless they are something like Giant's SLRs) and if you want deep carbon for 'everyday' riding go for 35 - 40mm. 60mm rims provide no real benefit on a road bike where riding in a pack provides as much protection from the wind as you'll get from the Aero effect.
With the money you've saved get a decent winter bike that will take 28c+ tyres and mudguards and ideally that has discs (although non-disc will enable wheels sharing, but you won't want to ride your precious 40mm carbon rims on wet UK roads).
Nurse, next patient please...
they sound like a herd of neurotic school kids driven by their own insecurities and immaturity
You’re all beginning to sway me away from the F10. I had already considered, as some have mentioned, that it may be more enjoyable in a way to start out with less and gradually build up.
I kind of like Specialized as well, in particular, I think maybe the Allez would be a good bike for me but I guess it might all depend on my LBS. Although I have also considered traveling to pick up a bike and then have maintenance done at the LBS as I learn to do my own.
I really wanted the bike to start taking my training seriously and so I was thinking of getting a power meter, HR sensor etc. But someone advised against that at this point. What do the rest of you think?
Original Poster is a troll, surely?? No-one would really post those questions in all seriousness.
Totally agree, but it is the season of goodwill.
As far as wheels go, I wouldn't suggest tubulars for normal riding. Friend of mine got a great deal on some deep carbon tubs and thought they were amazing... until his third ride with them when he punctured. Had to call his wife to get picked up. That's some bad luck on his part, but you'd have to decide if the risk of getting stranded is worth it to you. Going tubeless might be a better option and could give you more versatility.
Nothing wrong with 52t chainring and 32t Cass. Not all of us are lightweight riders. Heavyweight riders need more gearing for steep hills
Agree, also depends what your local climbs are. I am fortunate to have 3 of the official 100 UK climbs on my doorstep, I’ll keep my compact and 32 thank you.
Exactly. I do pretty well for my experience level on the flat, but I'm also about 200 lbs. Most of that is in my legs and chest/shoulders,/arms, but it still can be tough going fast up some of the nearby hills - have a lot of 10-15% inclines around me. My bike came with 50/34-12/28, changed the cassette to 11/28 and I'm usually on the upper end of my gears, but there are also enough times I still have to bail into the lowest gear that I don't want to give up those ratios completely. Figure a 52/36-11/32 would really hit a sweet-spot for me.
I'd ignore matching Froome's spec and go with something more durable and easier to maintain, namely SRAM Red eTap with hydraulic discs. Less cabling plus reliable braking that doesn't knacker your expensive carbon rims. 52T big ring, 32 ring on the cassette.
If you need gear ratios like that then there are many local Golf clubs just begging for members.
With respect what a load of absolute bollocks.
haha good joke mate- same gear i run with a 5w/kg FTP so unless you are a pro with 6w/kg FTP or live in florida then you should stop laughing at gear choices that people need. OP iif i were you i would go 34-32 easisest gear so you can spin up any climb and unless you are racing then a 50-11 is more than a big enough gear. If you want the best bike get a giant tcr advanced sl with etap that is outrageously light and very stiff.
Bit old this article but still gold in showing why you should get a giant tcr https://www.bournemouthcycleworks.co.uk/2012/10/the-truth-about-road-bik...
Also have fun spending your money mate
Gonna go against the grain here: buy whatever you want! If you've got the money and you want to spend it, I'm not going to tell you not to. I'm just jealous I can't do the same
Though, if I were giving out recommendations... people on here are correct about the very real possibility of getting a very nice bike only to find out that you hate how it rides. I too like the Dogma frames, though not because of Froome, I just like the design. If you're dead-set on a Pina, but want to hedge your bets and not spend so much just in case you end up not liking it, I'd suggest going for one of their Gan models. Look just like the Dogma F8 but with a cheaper (read slightly heavier) carbon layup. Competitive Cyclist has the 2017 Gan S Ultegra on for $2,400 USD.
Get a pro fit done with the Gan and ride it for awhile to see if you like it. If you do, throw on some carbon aero bars (or even aluminum aero), deep carbon rims, and any other little flashes you want (assuming seat, stem, etc. would be worked out during bike fit), and you've got something that's probably 95% of the Dogma but half (or less) of the price, and will still have a lot of bling. But more importantly, if you don't like it, you could offload it much easier than a Dogma without losing much money on it, and then have a better idea of what you're looking for.
I'm with the others that there's no need to get above Ultegra. You have the ability to go Di2 if you want, and replacing parts will be a lot cheaper not only because the parts are cheaper, but also you won't have to replace them as often, since from what I've heard/read you often end up sacrificing durability to get those marginal weight gains. In the small group I ride with, all the bikes are pretty nice (except for my CAAD8
). Several Cervelo S5's, a 13lb Trek Emonda, a couple Felt AR's, a Storck Aernario, and a Dogma F8, most riding Enve wheels. Aside from the F8 equipped with eTap (he got a screaming deal on it), the rest don't use anything above Ultegra, although they can afford it. A few had tried DA in the past, said they downgraded because the shifting felt nearly identical, barely noticed weight difference if at all, but were having to replace parts more often.
Good luck on whatever you decide!
And if you must stalk, it was 25.75km/h over 61m
Went past a tubby fella in an awful GB top
Worth bearing in mind how the law of diminishing returns applies to bicycles too...
The difference between £500 and £1000 bikes is fairly massive (more speeds and lighter wheels), the difference between £1000 and £2000 is noticeable (11 speed - maybe Ultegra - lighter overall weight), £2000 to £4000 isn't a huge difference in bikes (electric shifting, a slightly lighter frame and maybe aero wheels), and the difference between £4000 and £8000 bikes is even more marginal (Dura Ace Di2 with a slightly lighter frame and slightly lighter aero wheels).
The difference between a bike that costs £1500-£2; and one which costs £6-8k is surprisingly small.
Really, all you will see is Dura Ace Di2 in place of Ultegra mechanical and a set of carbon aero wheels, overall the weight difference may only be 1 kg at most, both will have carbon fibre frames, both will be damn good.
If you're building an Italian superbike why settle with the Veloce level Dura Ace?
And you should hide when training, world champs bands on kits and super bikes become a target.
I did the Manchester 100 on a 1980s steel Peugeot converted to single speed - enjoyed nothing more than annihilating people on Pinarellos'
Annihilating them at 18.4kph? If true they deserve to have their Pinarellos smashed, Al.
It depends if you believe everything you see on Strava, mine tends to follow me around the house, never auto pauses and also takes into account when I coast to let friends in a group do as they wish to...
And yep, smashed people thru Church Minshull up the climb or through Hartford...
I think it might also be worth pointing out that you may not get on very well with a superbike when you are just starting out. Similarly, when you are an experienced cyclist, you won't get on with an entry level bike. Geometry, gears, saddle, pedals - everything really.
My other half is a bike fitter and has some horror stories of (mostly middle-aged men with a bit of money to spend - not saying or assuming this is you) who decide they want to buy a really nice bike and they've bought a top of the range Cervelo or Pinarello, only to find it beats them up. When you're just starting out, the power you produce will be reasonably low and you'll find an aggressive race position uncomfy. This often leads to people finding that race bikes beat them up as they are riding along and give them all sorts of issues, lasting damage can be done from a poor bike fit. The example that stands out in my head was a Cervelo R5 that my other half had to fit a steerer tube extender and a riser stem because the gent riding it complained his new bike was too low and uncomfortable.
Either way, I think if you dead set on parting with such a large sum of cash, you really need to test ride a lot of different bikes and get a full professional bike fit. Personally, I'd go with something that isn't a superbike but is a good bike nonetheless; you can cut your teeth on it then use it as a winter bike in the long run.
Move away from the crowd.
Bespoke Reynolds 953 frame, Campag Super Record, handbuilt wheels to your spec/riding style - contact points/cockpit to suit and for comfort.
buy a Pinarello and someone else will have one - Bespoke bike - one of a kind!
Or a Wilier Superleggera Ramato
I'd seriously have a look at a custom frame builder and get soemthing that will fit and be fit for purpose.
They should talk to you about riding style and, obviously, give you a bike that fits. They'll also guide you through components too.
You'll end up with something that's far more special than today's trend bike.
Wouldn’t I need to be even more knowledgeable/experienced to know what I want from a custom build though. And where would I go to look into this?
Even more knowledge than what? You know that you want a Chris Froome bike without knowing what the components are simply because some bloke told you to buy a cheap motorbike instead of a Kenny Roberts replica. You have the cash, so spend it as you don't need advice, it's your money so spend it as you see fit. No one will mock you and we're all here to
make an offer when it pops up in the classifiedshelp you in the final purchase.You have the answers, listen to your inner self and buy the Chris Froome bike.
I'd wait for him to get busted for being a druggie first, they'll drop in price.
And I'll show you how to use this new search tool called Google on this interweb thingy in the New Year when we can forget this goodwill to all men crap...
no. A frame builder talks to you about the type of riding that you do, and the type you want to do. Then they talk you through component choices, suggesting and recommending based on what you’ve said and their reading of you, choice the colour and finish, measure you, take a deposit and say come back in three months. In three months you have a perfect bike which exactly suits you and your type of riding.
Also, One of the reasons I wanted to jump straight to a Pinarello was because I am also into motorcycles (on the road and track) and I got some bad advice when starting out as to which bikes to get. Cheap/expensive, new/second-hand etc. I kind of regretted my decisions. I could have what and where I wanted much faster and cheaper.
Not to say that you’re all giving me bad advice. Bicycles might be a different matter altogether. Maybe you’re right and it’s too much bike for a noob but I want(ed) to be sure.
One of my colleagues had some bad advice about motorcycles, he was advised to buy a cheap motorbike for getting to work and, basically, it broke after a just over a year! So, I understand what you're getting at.
From my own experience, I found it a real privilege to develop my own cycling ability along with slowly upgrading my bicycle. I learnt how to fix my bike, how to adjust the bikefit and how to get the most out of myself on my bike - I found it really rewarding.
Now, I know that makes me sound like a total pretentious tw*& but what I'm trying to get across is that you might find that if you buy a good road bike, a 105 level carbon (or high-grade alu might be a better option), in the long run, you'll find what you really want. Stick with it and you'll develop your own cycling ability to levels you wouldn't have thought possible - you'll gradually find you know what you want from a bike and then you'll find the superbike that you REALLY want, not one you want just because a pro rides it.
It's nice having huge amounts of money to spent on a bicycle although I don't really agree with the concept of irrational expenditures. But it is a much nicer trip to start from an entry level bicycle, see what you don't like and upgrade it. You will end up with a worse bike for the money spent but you will have learned a lot during the process
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