Building a super bike

Not 2.5 but an example

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fu...

The reason people are asking your height is so we can buy it off you in a year for a third of the price when you decide to play golf instead

Having a wedge doesn't mean you should spend a wedge, where do you anticipate going from there? Over a number of years I've worked up from second hand with Sora to an £1,800 carbon with 105. The upgrades have made things better as I've improved and I knew where to get bang for my buck.

If a Pinarello is your desire you can probably get a 2014 Froome like copy second hand for around £2.5k, the frame won't have changed that much. Then work out after a years riding where to continue to upgrade or go big!

Hi and merry Xmas to everyone. I’ve decided to take my cycling more seriously after a few months on a relative’s bike.(1) I’ve also got some money to spend so I would like a really nice bike even though I’m not a pro. (2)In particular, I’m liking the Pinarello Dogma F10 X-Light but as a noob I virtually have no idea where to begin selecting some components.(3)

I know I want a Dura Ace groupset though I’m not sure which one. Dura Ace wheels, probably tubular, but again not sure whether to go for C40/60. I’m leaning towards C60. Pros/cons?(4)

I also need to pick other components but don’t know what to get. Could someone identify for me the components used on the X-Light on the Pinarello website and also on Chris Froome’s bike if there is a difference.

1.  How long have you been riding?
2. What's your age, weight and height, are you really fast?
3. Why this bike in particular?
4. 60mm wheels will be more aero, 40mm better all round useage

Use your head over heart for the purchase.  Be doubly sure you want to shed thousands out on a bike for just bling benefits.  There are many more bikes much cheaper and just as good.  Personally I would go with Ultegra and no more.  There again, Im a type of guy who prefers one bike and change wheels/cass to suit the occassion.(Tripster V2)

Chris Froome, like other pros, is likely to be riding with components that are rebranded so as not to upset his own or team sponsors.

His choices of gear ratios will change depending on routes and terrain, and he'll not be paying for these parts either.

Be like Chris, decide what you want for your needs, irrespective of what anyone/everyone else is riding. Be a leader and not a follower.

If I were you, I'd get a cheaper bike first off to get an idea of the kind of riding you're going to be doing. You can get a decent Boardman's road bike for about £1000 that'll be fun to ride. Ride the hell out of that for a few months and then you'll be in a much better position to know what kind of bike/riding suits you. Buying the best bike you can afford is all well and good, but you don't want to end up regretting the choice you made.

Remember that the single most important criteria for choosing a bike is that you enjoy riding it, so you need to know you and your riding style better to make a good choice.

For what it's worth, I'd recommend going for a cheaper groupset than Dura-Ace. Shimano Ultegra is the next best and is virtually the same except for a few more grams, but is a lot cheaper. The next step down is Shimano 105 which is a superb groupset that is a bit cheaper than Ultegra, but still performs brilliantly.

Hi.  It is great that you can afford to buy yourself such a lovely bicycle.  However, I'm sorry to say, but you are asking a lot of questions that you really should be knowing the answers to if you are going to pay out that much money.  Gear ranges can to an extent be changed later, and changed to suit if you are going to be riding in different places.  What gearing did the bike you borrowed have?  Is it too high geared for you, or two low, is there a gear you feel is missing?  Fit is harder to change, and if I was going to be spending even close to the amount you are spending I would be wanting very personal service from a very good bike shop.  

Find yourself a good bike shop, get a bike fit, and sure buy a very expensive bike at the end of it, but get personal service and something that fits.  Don't just buy the most expensive bike you can afford becase it is what the current famous pro uses, you want something comfortable to ride and none of us can tell you what is comfortable for you to ride.

Also you could join a club.  I never have, I like riding alone, but I'm sure you would get a wealth of knowledge there.

Consider picking up a secondhand bike, or a cheapish new bike, see what you like and don't like about it.  That can then become your winter/rough weather/leave it outside the shops bike.  Big advantage of having more than one bike is that you can still ride if there is a problem with one of them.

The pina/Froome uses 'pro' bars and stem IIRC nowt wrong with them but how can you know if the components on there suit what you need, similarly the saddle and seatpost?
If you are set on the Pina for gods sakes get a bike fit at a well respected shop.
I would say you're as much going to be better off with non std spec Pina/Froome components than with, experience usually tells you what is good/works well for you (not a pro tour winner).
Compact drops that have a flattish top might be a start, many pros like alu bars, me I much prefer carbon. Seatpost needs to have right amount of setback and yhe saddle that actually fits your atse not Chris Froomes!!
Getting a high end bike with no idea on fit and less idea on comfort at the contact points is a disaster waiting to happen and would spoil the ride/not do a decent bike justice.
As I daid, go chat with someone that knows something more than yourself at a club or decent shop

Welcome to the forum jrg91. Appears you are looking at spending a considerable amount of money, so please pause for a moment. Earlier this year I was considering upgrading my existing  Pinarello, only to find that I could not secure a long enough test ride to know if the additional cost would be worthwhile. However, I did learn that Pinarello have facilities in Mallorca where you can hire from over 100 bikes with various configurations to see what suits you best. 

No idea of costs yet, but is on my agenda for next year if things go to plan. I don't know if anyone on the forum has used them but it makes sense to me.

You might be better off thinking about what you will be using the bike for rather that the cost of the components (weight.) Dura-Ace is nice but Ultegra or even 105 in Shimano is sufficient. Your bike will have mud on it withing a week that weighs more than the difference between the components.

Tell us what type of riding you will be doing, what events if any? Do you want a Standard/mid-compact/compact on the front, and what range of gears on the back. Is a 32 more important to you than an 11 cog? Will you be leaping up the dales like a mountain goat or cruising along the coast road with a tail wind?

DA wheels are not what you some would consider to be 'super bike' kit, these days they're in the third tier. They're not exactly slow or shit by any stretch but the design has barely changed in years, I haven't personally ridden them but I reckon there are better for a bit more, certainly in the braking dept.

Campag Bora Ultra, Corima SCC aero, ENVE, more spendy but more bling, more aero, better hubs, more lateral stiffness particularly the Corima's. Don't get Zipps, the hubs are wank.

I was considering buying some Corima rims (you can buy pretty much any hole designation you want but are spendy) and having them handbuilt onto some pukka hubs like Aivee, ALTO, CK, Phil Wood, Soul Kozak etc but got an epic deal on a pair of Campag Bora One's

Finishing kit was Ritchey Super logic post, Selle Italia carbon railed saddle, Modolo Curvissima compact bars, Cirrus 4ZA stem with gold ti bolts. The 4ZA is a lovely stiff stem but above all it fitted with the look of my bike.

Pick stuff that suits your needs, buy what works for you, don't be a copy cat because often what works for one rider and what they are doing will not work work well or as good for another.

The MOST Talon carbon stuff on the Pina I don't rate.