Di2 shifting problem

When I installed Di2 on my bike I had the same issue.  A replacement hangar fixed it instantly.

You say that t he hanger is not bent. Have you used a hanger alignment tool to confirm this? That’s where I would start. Even a slight bend can throw your micro adjustments way out.

You should also check that you are somewhere in the middle of the available micro adjustments and then fine tune from there - if you are at one extreme you may find you are actually on the wrong cog at the back (one cog out of where the derailleur should be).

As for not getting the cross-chaining combinations, that is indeed a feature which can be changed using the E-TUBE software. As others have said you will need the charger, cable and a windows based pc/ laptop to access it. I would get this kit and ensure all the firmware for each component is up to date and then get into the settings to change your configuration.

It can be done wirelessly from a tablet with the Bluetooth sender somewhere in your wiring circuit - the EW-WU111. I would however just check the compatibility chart here https://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/pdf/en/HM-CC.3.2.0-01-EN.pdf to make sure everything is compatible before splashing out on one.

I use the Bluetooth sender but merely for linking to my Garmin. I do not use it for firmware updates via my iPad run E-TUBE app as I have heard of people struggling to get that to work properly - the charger linked to my windows pc works fine every time for those.

PP

Go back to the basic setup. Place setup up mid cassette, ensure the derailleur is on the correct gear. With micro adjustment align chain by closely observing chain position. The setup shouldn't be more than a few clicks either side of zero.

You mention 16 in micro adjustment which indicates, the cassette is either in the wrong position or the hanger is at problem. Why did you think your original derailleur was bent, have you had a crash?

Something like this is probably your best option - if you've got a Windows laptop

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shimano-SM-PCE1-PC-Interface-Device-for-hire-...

Is your battery definitely a BTR-1? Because if so you need the much more expensive SM-PCE1 charger to use eTube for firmware updates/resets, the BCR2 won't work:

See:

Note 6 – SM-BTR1 External Battery and SM-BMR1 Mount firmware updates: The more expensive dedicate service tool (SM-PCE1 PC Interface) must be used to upgrade the firmware on the external battery/mount.The external battery and battery mount can not receive firmware upgrades via the SM-EW90 Front Junction A and the SM-BCR2 PC Interface/Battery Charger. (The SM-EW90 will work in a system with an external battery, but a firmware update can cause them to become incompatible until both are updated independently using the appropriate PC Interface and the Shimano E-Tube Project software.)

from http://carltonbale.com/shimano-di2-everything-you-need-to-know/comment-p... (search BTR1)

It's avoiding cross chaining, as it's programmed to do. Update the firmware, and see what happens.

Could be Gear Position control

https://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/about/gearpositioncontrol.html

"NOTE

If you use combinations of front and rear derailleurs besides those recommended, the shifting-restricted range may become larger.
Restrictions on gear position can be disabled via the Customize menu in E-TUBE PROJECT. (Restrictions cannot be disabled for 52–36T or 50–34T.)"

Although I don't recall ever having that on my 6870 system. 

As our squirrely friend notes, if you have the right battery charger you can download eTube software and tinker around with the settings. You can also do firmware updates using it. Need a Windows laptop though. 

When doing firmware updates just make sure you do the battery first, then the battery holder, then the shifters, and then ideally front mech before rear mech. If it doesn't solve it I'd look at potentially trying the latest external battery holder - BM-DN100. Maybe order it from somewhere that offers free returns. You'll also need the little cable fork - TL-EW02

Have you got the charging adapter for the Di2 system i.e. the box that looks like a small power supply but with a usb socket on it and a cable that plugs into funny Di2 connector? If so, and you have access to a suitable Windows laptop then you can download and install the ETube software from Shimano (https://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/). Connect the Di2 charger to a USB cable connected to the laptop and you should then be able to configure your Di2 system (including upgrading firmware etc).

Just checked and the BTR-1 is listed as compatible with R-8050

https://productinfo.shimano.com/#/lc/ultegra_r8050/2x11

So that I think rules out any Di2 incompatibility. Not sure how you got about doing a hard reset on a Di2 battery but that's what I'd start with if it's possible.

The BTR-1 doesn't support any of the new intelligent features like syncro-shift and cross-chain avoidance. That might be why it isn't listed as compatible with the R8000. 

Shimano also made changes with R8x Ultegra around chainline and in particular front mech position (2.5mm further out) but that doesn't explain why there was also an issue with 6870

What bike is it? Was it supplied with 6870 Di2? Are you the original owner?

When I ran 6870 I recall I ended up using the internal battery (the seatpost one) coupled with the external battery case from the XTR Di2 range. What I can't remember is why - might have been compatibility, might have been thinking of future-proofing the system as I planned to get a new frame and go fully internal. 

Also, all the logic and "intelligence" for Di2 is stored in the battery. If you're not the original owner it might be worth getting your bike shop to do a hard reset on the battery. Another option is to pop along to a local club who might have someone who can lend you the full diagnostic kit. I've also seen people renting it out on eBay.

Edit: Actually the BTR-1 can do synchro shift, but you need the latest external battery mount (BM-DN100)

I had a similar problem: new RD8000 rear mech not shifting into the smallest two gears. I tried the hanger (it was fine) the b-screw (it was fine) the high and low limit screws (they were fine) and in the end took it to my LBS (not a cheap and nasty one) who didn't fix it either. Turns out my problem was with the íntelligence' of the rear mech, which for some reason is programmed not to shift into the smallest gears when in the inner ring up front. 

However, changing the settings file on e-tube (I use the app not the computer as I don't have a Windows computer) solved the issue. I changed it so that the 'brain'thinks the bike is running 53/39 and 11-25, putting the gear settings into 'not fixed' and the problem has gone away. It's actually running 52-34 and 11-28, which apart from the odd clunky front shift, works just fine. I haven't tried changing the front ring settings to 52-36 yet to see if that works, but will do.

To get the settings files to save you have to first save them to the app, then drag them to the bike (it'll make sense if you have the app) for them to load. I'm not sure how  you'd do it with the computer programme but I'm sure you can work it out.

Hope this helps.

Have you followed the dealer manual instructions for setting up the rear derailleur? https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-R8050-01-ENG.pdf

Sounds like an adjustment issue to me...

PP

It sounds like your cassette is not aligned to your rear mech. Have you got any spacers fitted behind the cassette?