- News
- Reviews
- Bikes
- Accessories
- Accessories - misc
- Computer mounts
- Bags
- Bar ends
- Bike bags & cases
- Bottle cages
- Bottles
- Cameras
- Car racks
- Child seats
- Computers
- Glasses
- GPS units
- Helmets
- Lights - front
- Lights - rear
- Lights - sets
- Locks
- Mirrors
- Mudguards
- Racks
- Pumps & CO2 inflators
- Puncture kits
- Reflectives
- Smart watches
- Stands and racks
- Trailers
- Clothing
- Components
- Bar tape & grips
- Bottom brackets
- Brake & gear cables
- Brake & STI levers
- Brake pads & spares
- Brakes
- Cassettes & freewheels
- Chains
- Chainsets & chainrings
- Derailleurs - front
- Derailleurs - rear
- Forks
- Gear levers & shifters
- Groupsets
- Handlebars & extensions
- Headsets
- Hubs
- Inner tubes
- Pedals
- Quick releases & skewers
- Saddles
- Seatposts
- Stems
- Wheels
- Tyres
- Health, fitness and nutrition
- Tools and workshop
- Miscellaneous
- Tubeless valves
- Buyers Guides
- Features
- Forum
- Recommends
- Podcast
Add new comment
88 comments
Just having a poke around Decathlon - this is their base toolkit
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/500-bike-tool-box/_/R-p-145152
to which I'd add a few relevant spanners, screwdrivers, those nice Tacx cable cutters and some needlenose pliers to get started.
One like This would be more my preference as it's got 1" headset tools, a pin spanner for older b/bs and has cone spanners:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/VonHaus-Bike-Tool-Kit-Piece/
I still recommend Decathlon's set of 3 tyre levers at £2.99, but also some interesting new items here:
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/bike-tyre-lever/_/R-p-300646
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/mp/tyrekey/tyrekey-v2-the-ultimate-tyre-le...
Finally, I liked the symbolic energy from their current chain checker 🗑️
Simple really...
Decathlon Chain Whip...... never fails.... no rapped knuckles
Since we're playing shops here's my selection of tools that are more than simply functional, but make fettling a pleasure as they are so satisfying in use.
Recent tools include the Knipex bolt croppers (SKS mudguard stays) and Shimano chain tool (since I chose to use the supplied pins rather than quick link types).
Particular faves are the Tekton 1/4" drive 270 degree swivel head jobby (with Facom bits) and 4mm Bondhus T wrench, especially for stem and seat post bolts.
Special mention to the old stagers: 3rd hand tool for fine tuning canti brakes, and the long, sleeved 6mm Allen key for the rather elegantly concealed bolt on an 80s Dura Ace stem.
These make setting up a FD a doddle.
+1 for these. Also work with Shimano.
Talking of Campag, here's a tool for removing/replacing the spring when cleaning, servicing or repairing an 11-speed shifter (L) and another for removing the fiddly Ultra Torque retainer clip (R).
Titanium fid, for opening up the plastic tube inside the cable outer.
Pricey, but had to have it, but it is shockingly useful for its intended task. Love to tell you where to find one but cannot find it.
I make mine out of spokes and a grinding wheel.
Another favourite, a cassette tool with a prong that goes down the axle (for QR axles).
A cone-shaped carborundum block for finishing a cut steerer nicely:
Proper shears for cable inners and outers, that include a tool for opening out the flattened ends of cut outers.
Finally, a small collett for pulling the roller bearings out of blind-ended pedal bodies. An absolute dream to use.
Show us the opening out tool.
It's the little round thing on the side of the shears, it has a prong in the middle.
Today I learn that Tacx made workshop tools.
And only this week I was smug about my new Draper cable cutters (£10.49 btw) and now I have buyers remorse
3 vital tools:
1. Dear old AWS-10 - this one is about 12 years old from when I was a mobile mechanic. Like a lot of multi-tools but this is just high quality hex tools made out of whatever indestructible formula of steel PT use. Seems to be just the right tension and not too big that it won't fit, it's rare to need anything else and preferable to the three headed oddities they also make. I miss my long handled hex spanners occasionally but for working on my bike this works perfectly. I do have a little torque spanner for doing important things right.
2. Trying to hide in plain sight, the invaluable valve core remover that everyone running tubeless can't live without. I've got 6 or 7, one in each bike kit and the others loitering in various places around the garage - but never in the place I first look.
3. For some reason Mrs S provided my coffee in a posh mug today. I'm nominating the mug of coffee, not Mrs S, in the 3rd slot!
One maybe for our tool addicted squirrel friend, well I have finally discovered a multi tool featuring a Japanese Industry Standard (2) pattern screwdriver, there is a multitool article when I had asked. Bit late for me as I now have a workshop tool (shipped from Japan at a very reasonable rate) and I have moved on from Shimano to Rohloff and Hope on my every day ride. Was looking at a very nice green disk trueing tool at those good people at Abbeytools and scrolled through their fine collection. The JIS is one of the many options, and it's in green, of course.
https://www.abbeybiketools.com/products/4-way?variant=3439001567262
I did buy some JIS bits (standard hex drive) ages ago, but haven't wanted to use them yet - less fettling required with Di2, but I've got them for when I need them. That multitool does look very shiny, so my inner goblin is intrigued and I'll likely check out their catalogue. From the pictures, it looks like that multitool doesn't split into two pieces which is a shame as it's a slightly awkward shape.
A good JIS screwdriver is essential for working on the free stroke adjustment for Shimano MTB brake levers. Tiny soft screw used and a standard Philips will just round it out. Quite why they insist on using this rather than a hex bolt is beyond me. Same driver is also great for limit screws of course.
Chain splitter and at one time, also joiner and chain link pliers. The memory is fading fast now, but on 5-8s you can splice chains to your heart's content.
you drove a rivet out so only a little bit protruded on the inside and with a bit of a bend, split the chain. You could then drive another rivet all the way out and then rejoin. If it was stiff you'd drive it on a fraction and then moving to the spreader slots drove it back by about a quarter or half a turn. I don't know how that worked.
It did work though.
I think Pilot Pete has discussed some weakness in a redriven rivet, as I remember there is some peening on the head of the good rivet, which is removed when redriving it. Campag has its own peening tool.
https://www.ukbikefactory.com/park-ct11-rivet-peening-tool-for-campagnol...
Parks version is fairly reasonable, campag's is about £140.
Hexes and hexes and hexes, plus a couple of Torx. I find myself using the T handles the most just because they're easiest to get out.
This looks like one of those neat set-ups...
Those T-handles are interesting what make are they?
Eklind. I think I bought them from Menard's, a US chain of big box hardware stores. Fairly inexpensive and they've taken some abuse well.
https://www.menards.com/main/tools/hand-tools/hex-wrenches/eklind-reg-me...
Oh brilliant Mr Shimano, clap clap clap, fan of the M324 and M520 pedals as I am, you've really set a trap for the unwary - you can dismantle the bearings with standard tools, but you have to track down these gizmos (for the cost as a new pair of pedals) to reassemble and - bonus - they're different.
The tap is a l/h pedal tap I managed to track down on Ebay from China. Pedal decided randomly to unwind itself one day and a fair bit of damage was done before I realised. Worth a try, I guess.
There is a service that can fix damaged crank threads with a helicoil; here's where you need a jig because if it's even slightly off you'll feel it. But I don't think it's economic unless they're your granddad's Super Record cranks that he won the Milk Race on in like 1970 that you've nadgerred.
most LBS's can do a helicoil. Mine can at least. Sometimes screwing a good quality Steel axle pedal in from the back of the crank is enough too. Spot of locktite afterwards optional.
Screwing something from the other side is always goto fix no. 1 for a damaged thread - removes the minimum amount of material, and is often enough to push the thread back in place, and often there are far more threads than are actually needed to create enough friction for a bolt to stay firmly in in place if there is some damage.
Try 2 is a thread cutter - Park Tool do excellent ones of course. Every LBS can do that. Unfortunately removes metal - better for cleaning threads - my main job was for things like downtube adjusters on Specialized bikes which back in the day always seemed to need drilling out because nobody ever used them and never lubricated them and then you want to fine adjust a front derailleur (hoorah for Shimano finally putting an adjuster on the FD!).
Helicoils - expensive and time to fit, often it seems to be the left hand side crank that people have stuffed up, and that is often the cheaper fix to replace than a helicoil. Any decent bike shop has their magic corner of goodies with a few saved left hand cranks lurking.
Looks like a set of EKLIND Cushion Grip Hex T-Key Allen Wrenches. Example here:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Eklind-Rek55166-Metric-Handle-Hexagon/dp/B0000C...
Here's an item I think you don't need - spoke tension meter.
Now, there's a parallel to gardening here, which I've attempted to do this year for the first time really since childhood. We wanted to do a wild flower patch. The instructions for the so-called wild flowers said you had to prepare a seed bed, fine tilth.
Yeah, right, they're wild, so I just sprinkled them around the grass, didn't mow it and waited. Well, that went well - a patch of long grass.
So it goes with wheel building and spoke tensions. "Ping" on the drive side, "pong" on the non-drive - or the other way around - but the point it's simple and instinctive. Wheel build instructions sound like such a bunch of old women some times. In my case, it's been 5 happy years since my first wheel build, so that must count for something - right?
Pages