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6 comments
I had the same predicament recently and wondered if its worth having a seperate torque wrench for the bike.
As my automotive wrench was a few years old i decided to go with a new wrench with a few different head types which will cover both bases. Very pleased with it so far.
https://www.vantagetools.co.uk/tt-gaai1102/
The Sealey STW1012 (2- 28 Nm)is an accurate, fairly low cost torque wrench which is popular amongst many cyclists including me.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000RO1ZCG/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i01
Got mine from Screwfix and it is great and about half the price of a "cycle specific" one
Great info...thanks a bunch.
I mostly use a torque driver rather than a wrench.
They work at much lower ranges. I have one of these for small jobs
http://www.ppcgb.com/Sealey-Torque-Screwdriver-Set-34pc-2-10Nm-1-4-Sq-Dr...
Then one of these for bigger jobs
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-8-inch-2-24nm-1-47-17-70lb-ft-Micrometer/dp/B000RO1ZCG/ref=pd_sim_diy_3
I always work of Nm (Newton Meters) rather than kN, which I believe is just 1000 Nm?
The wrench needs to be accurate at relatively low torques - from say 2.5kN (front mech band) through 6-8kN (stem bolts) to 12kN (crank bolts). If it's aimed at higher torque range then it won't be as accurate at low torque settings as a bike torque wrench.