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15 comments
Small-small will always catch more than big-big. The chain is slack and free to bend and flap more. It's also crossing right past the inner face of the big ring so prone to snagging on that (especially if it's bouncing around).
The chainstays are quite short so that makes a difference - more acute angle comapred to longer stays.
Basically, either live with it or use your gears properly. Big-big is a far better combination and you'll almost certainly find some equivalent gears. You haven't said what ratio chainrings you have but assuming a 34/50 compact, 34-12 is almost identical to 50-18: you get a better chainline, less bouncing and flex in the chain, less wear on the system (because the pedalling force is spread over more teeth).
Can I also say that it's 2020, is cross-chaining still a thing?
No wonder Road.cc can run articles on 1x's
Has anyone answered the OP's actual question?
Do you mean that you cannot physically use your full range of gears? That the rear derailleur won't let you change?
Or that you have full range, but generate a tinkling or horrible grinding noise in certain gear combos eg small-small?
I have no experience of Campag, but I presume that adjusting the rear derailleur is much of a muchness. YouTube may be your friend.
OK I apologise in advance for not being helpful here but what possible benefit is gained from using small-small?
Thanks Mathemagician: I guess my small/small addiction goes back to when inner chainrings were 44T only so one would ride all day in 44 x 16T which was second sprocket or so on a 5 or 6 speed 'block'. Also I feel tranmission is more relaxed in this situation and reduces wear & tear? Big/big which I do avoid puts a big strain on mech!
It's interesting (well to me anyway) to note that Di2 groupsets won't let you even select the small-small. The most cross chaining you can get is inner ring-3rd smallest sprocket. So it ain't a right good combo anyway and you're loosing nothing by not having it.
Having said that I have Chorus 11sp set up so that I could cross chain without rubbing if I really wanted to. I susspect this might depend on chain stay length. I think it's worth you persevering the alignment at the front derailleur if you really want it.
Absolutely wrong. Big cogs wear much slower as the load from the chain is spread over more teeth. That's why cassettes wear out much faster than chain rings. Big to big is far better for your bike than small-small. The rear mech is made to handle the extension, its only the springs that will be tighter.
But to go back to the original point, it's an adjustment issue, I can use small-small on my Campag Super Record or Athena bikes, though it's a bit noisier.
What's your chainstay length?
Thanks Srchar, the Wilier chainstay length is 408mm, on my Dolan which allows me to use small/small easily is 414mm.
It's within spec (just). Are you 100% sure that the chain touches the big ring when in the small ring and the smallest 3/4 sprockets? If so, it points to something wrong with your frame.
I don't think pros use the small-small combination. That gear length is much better served by being on the big ring and mid-cluster on the rear. Big-big is useful, for example to get over the top of a rise when you know you'll be changing up again soon, and Potenza handles that very well. As a long-time Campag user I agree that the chain will tinkle against the chainrings if you choose small-smallest or small-second smallest. It's a feature, it reminds you to choose a better gear combination, lol. Campag EPS though, the front mech moves slightly to avoid chain rub in extreme combinations.
Honestly though I think you should rid yourself of the small-small habit, yet don't be afraid of big-big.
Firstly, you shouldn't be cross-chaining. Pros might do it, but they don't have to look after their kit.
Secondly, I've just installed Potenza on a new bike and observed that it will cross-chain quite happily (I did it by accident!). I don't know if this has anything to do with it, but the front mech seemed happiest when it was further from the chainring than would be recommended by other manufacturers. So maybe raise your front mech slightly.
"Shouldn't be cross chaining" - Rubbish
Whilst in general I agree that cross chaining is not great for the longevity of chain or sprockets, cross chaining is quite acceptable in cases such as finishing off a short hill on a fast training ride, I have always done big-big in such situations and my kit lasts well enough, I mean why faff about dropping on the small ring and then dropping down a sprocket or two for the last 100yds of a climb when you are eyeballs out?
I don't do small-small though unless by accident.
Heresy!
If I were you I would not mention to Campag that you enjoy cross-chaining. They are likely to come over and snatch your bike off you.