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1 comments
Not sure how much it helps but I certainly notice differences between my turbo (kickr core) cassette and back wheel although I have exactly the same cassette on both and also use a separate chain on both so it's not the result of mismatched wear. I have heard people needing to re-index from turbo to back wheel although I didn't myself. The chain angle when in the big ring and smallest cog on the tubro does look a bit more extreme than normal although I struggle to see how this could be given it should pretty much line up with the drive-side chain stay... But if that's the case it would make sense you get a bit of rub if the indexing correctly doesn't give you much leeway on the chain position in the big ring.
When I first got the turbo I got a lot of chain vibration in the smaller cogs due to 'chordal action' which isn't turbo-related per se but was quite a weird sensation. I found that fiddling with the tightness of the skewer could help settle this down so maybe worth trying. Logically tightening it up such that the chain stays are pulled towards the centre might reduce the chain angle and rub, but of course make sure you're not overdoing it and risking damage to the bike. It may also be with mine that it's settled down over time as the cassette and chain have worn a bit. If you're using your normal chain (worn) with a brand new cassette it could be a factor in the vibration too but this would be pretty noticeable.
So I would say maybe give the front derailleur a small adjustment, and/or play around a bit with the rear skewer or rear indexing. But ultimately (depending on what you're interested in doing) you can get a lot of use out of smart trainers on erg mode without the need to change gears, so I find I very rarely require my 52x12/11 anyway so the vibration doesn't bother me too much.